tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-12905637114378563642024-03-05T23:32:01.332-08:00Morocco 2012Robinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15450251488356273426noreply@blogger.comBlogger42125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1290563711437856364.post-42987129709110428132012-09-18T09:20:00.004-07:002012-09-19T15:20:28.139-07:00Lasting note<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Mysterious and exotic. Spectacular food and a wonderful
teaching assignment. Lovely house and gardens. Great companions. Sights I
longed to see and those I never anticipated. Morocco was a great adventure.</div>
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Robinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15450251488356273426noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1290563711437856364.post-15916062611696091542012-09-18T09:20:00.001-07:002012-09-18T09:20:00.243-07:00Insepartion <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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What a tiny few observations can be made after being
absorbed into the world, yet never really part of it, for three weeks! </div>
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The laws of the country and the tenants of the faith are so
interwoven in Morocco. Leaders of the mosques are chosen by the local community
but paid by the government as are all the needs of the mosque. One attends
whatever mosque is nearby at prayer time so the sense of a faith community as
we know it does not exist. Connections are made in the family, the hammam and
tea shop. The current legal time zone is adjusted for the fasting of Ramada.
The king is a ruler, but many do not like his wife who was the first queen ever
seen in public and does not wear a scarf. </div>
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I think that is why the powder keg in the Middle East is so
hard for Westerners to understand. Issues of power and control and lack become
inflamed with religious offense so easily, and what is conveyed via press on
both sides is so far from either truth, but accepted as fact on both sides.</div>
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Robinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15450251488356273426noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1290563711437856364.post-768358081121413212012-09-18T09:19:00.002-07:002012-09-19T15:30:17.988-07:00Continual Reminders of Other<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Five times a day the call sounds from the minaret: time to
pray. Although I see very few people stop at those moments to pray, the calls
begin to govern the hours of all who live in Morocco. It is a constant reminder
from 4 or 5 directional speakers at once that 98% of those around us are
believers in the Koran and the Prophet and the Five Tenants. Intellectual ideas
for us; consuming ways of life for them.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgHdRV9_y-TjJK-ZcnUgAaN4Xtw9TWuAkz5GkuQNa6kMzr1k1KVn5QEsHwSK4jSsu4fAhQtNsEuDJpvPAlRDB6KUFYO5-PigcVgPzVsU5-8YOGj5iv8aEae2fHb7rbeEw2TlEVOGu6vVw/s1600/IMG_9519.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgHdRV9_y-TjJK-ZcnUgAaN4Xtw9TWuAkz5GkuQNa6kMzr1k1KVn5QEsHwSK4jSsu4fAhQtNsEuDJpvPAlRDB6KUFYO5-PigcVgPzVsU5-8YOGj5iv8aEae2fHb7rbeEw2TlEVOGu6vVw/s200/IMG_9519.jpg" width="200" /></a>There is no way to discuss without defense our different
beliefs. We both have answers for each other’s questions which make so much
sense as to not be discussable. I suppose I would be as successful explaining
the mysteries of real body and blood in Holy Communion as they were initiating
me into why Jesus did not die but was replaced in the tomb by someone who
looked like him. The Westerners listen without contradiction. The Moroccans do
not ask any questions they cannot answer.</div>
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The key to the faith as it was explained to me, and as it
makes sense now in day to day life in Morocco and world events, is the
individual’s relationship to Allah at the center of the faith. One is required
to give to charity, to pray, to keep the Ramadan fast, to believe in God and
the Prophet, to make a pilgrimage. Having done that, responsibility is
fulfilled: one is right with Allah and anticipates heavenly reward. Duty to family
is culturally key, as is modesty in women. But central tenants Christians hold
close such as forgiveness by God and each other, compassion and gracious giving
are just not in the motivating conscious mind of those I met.</div>
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Robinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15450251488356273426noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1290563711437856364.post-22022538624507119672012-09-18T09:18:00.002-07:002012-09-18T15:46:59.660-07:00World of Secrets<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Morocco invites one to enter and explore, but not too far.
The mosque doors in the medina are unlocked. Visible inside the unmarked door
is a pile of shoes and a simple protective wall. In the more spacious areas,
the mosques are full of arches and shadows, water pools and tree lined paths.
They are clearly oases in the endless brown surroundings. No signs, but for all
the invitation to rest and peace that can be glimpsed, it is understood I as a
woman, non-Muslim, am not allowed.</div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJen9eqLhPPCZujxdSO8_HCza8XdbFC0rzw_Vei1MOPIWhD4aSMh5H5gRw7RXlyQiy1AKwhCbSuVeaNbeahdAHRO0mTL-ouKfVKwFgNWsFeFNCkOvDf8rijizH8wyqUds4_jl82ScwLjU/s1600/IMG_9391.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJen9eqLhPPCZujxdSO8_HCza8XdbFC0rzw_Vei1MOPIWhD4aSMh5H5gRw7RXlyQiy1AKwhCbSuVeaNbeahdAHRO0mTL-ouKfVKwFgNWsFeFNCkOvDf8rijizH8wyqUds4_jl82ScwLjU/s320/IMG_9391.jpg" width="240" /></a><br />
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The medina beacons with meandering narrow alley-roads that
curve tantalizingly, promising a great discovery just around the corner, but a
few steps off the path in an unknown direction and the noise of the market
disappears. The walls are painted cooling whites or blue and doors are uniquely
decorated, but shut tight. Windows are high on the walls and covered with black
grill, allowing no casual peek at the life inside. Life and noise are in the
walled garden and patio, but only the family enters. </div>
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The women chatter and giggle, haggle and shout, link arms
and cling close in the market, but most heads are covered, a few even veil
faces. Even the young girls cover elbows and legs in the hottest weather. For
all the universal female traits, the Westerner gets the sense of not belonging.
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It is mysterious and exotic, a little exclusive and off
putting, with a touch of dark and frightening. Inviting, curiously compelling,
completely unknowable.</div>
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Robinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15450251488356273426noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1290563711437856364.post-2027625707101085302012-08-31T08:14:00.000-07:002012-09-19T14:47:28.804-07:00Blue Moons and Bye-byes<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Ah the blue moon. Lots of info on what and when but not why that name. Found it! The Christian calendar, used for dating movable feasts like Easter, is based on 12 Full moons, 1 per month. Mostly. So then the 13th moon showed up they referred ito it as a Betrayal Moon because it threw off ao the tidy planning. And in Old English betrayal is "belewe"<span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875);"> moon.</span><br />
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So with that bit of trivia it is time for good byes here - I gave my students a list of movies to watch to improve their English and a way to use Google to get news in English. I think some will keep going. They have more than they did 3 weeks ago. Plus they know Chicago Bulls. That alone will impress their friends at the hammam.<br />
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I have lots of reflection and contrasts but they will wait until after a week in Spain. I'll also add pictures to the blog and let you all know when it is ready for enhanced viewing. Thanks for taking the journey with me!<br />
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Robinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15450251488356273426noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1290563711437856364.post-69219235002291113932012-08-30T08:44:00.004-07:002012-08-30T08:44:53.741-07:00Pulled into the future<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Suddenly it is 48 hours until I get on a big plane again. I filled out my final evaluation form and poked in my suitcase to see if I need to buy more souvenirs. (yes) tomorrow is the last day of teaching. Sadly there are no volunteers to continue this job, but most of the students will go back to school next month so they will be busy. But no one will talk English to them.<br />
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Arabic is the first language taught, followed by French in grade 1. The most recent addition to the curriculum is Berber as some were afraid of losing touch with their roots. English is still an elective and #4 on the list. These students can read individual words - although I had to explain "independence" and "kite"! Did they not read the Kite Runner? - but had no idea what an E at the end did the the vowel in the middle as far as pronouncation goes. Or two vowels together. I have not even touched all the exceptions. What a complicated language.<br />
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Many of them are on Facebook and hopefully they play games with English speakers. Bejeweled is universal.<br />
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From here I meet Bob in Spain and tour Barcelona and Madrid. Back in the US on Sept 9. Thanks to my son and friend for manning the house and enduring the bites of the cat.</div>
Robinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15450251488356273426noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1290563711437856364.post-49942590878702050692012-08-29T12:22:00.003-07:002012-08-29T12:22:45.955-07:00Sprawlmart<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Every country has one - huge warehouse jungle of clothes, food, washing machines, toys, bedding, fresh fruit, confusingly located under one roof. Here we have Marjane. And next to it a McDonalds. But today's run was necessary because there's was a sever shortage of ice cream in the house. Desserts are always fruit. This was so desperate we had to eat one on the way home, 1/2 melted and dripping. Exquisite.<br />
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What I really crave: bacon. Bacon cheeseburgers, bacon sandwich, bacon with pancakes, eggs and bacon, bacon wrapped hot dogs..</div>
Robinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15450251488356273426noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1290563711437856364.post-25457278565969397342012-08-28T11:59:00.000-07:002012-09-18T15:42:20.085-07:00Visit to the White House<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Casablanca that is. We took the 1pm train to Casablanca to see the Hassan II mosque. It is an hour train ride so we went 2nd class which is OK but very hot. However Casablanca is on the ocean so there was a nice breeze waiting for us.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHOPwalQRqFP9D_8WdMaU8FacZFYGJUgwyQdRMx7u-TH8vQUkRGg8cwsGUAjt0WhkFlG_XQaC5EqMgUbxS8OSaRFg8QGdxtF3l-1slj6X2_aALL5-GB6NkHAR1OKM2okPLUdrmn4XOwhs/s1600/IMG_9574.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHOPwalQRqFP9D_8WdMaU8FacZFYGJUgwyQdRMx7u-TH8vQUkRGg8cwsGUAjt0WhkFlG_XQaC5EqMgUbxS8OSaRFg8QGdxtF3l-1slj6X2_aALL5-GB6NkHAR1OKM2okPLUdrmn4XOwhs/s320/IMG_9574.jpg" width="213" /></a>We got the 3pm tour and there's were actually 6 in the English group which was fun. This is the only mosque in Morocco (and in most of the world) that non-muslims can even enter.<br />
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You can take pictures anywhere, but the reality is everything is so massive that picture are mini pieces you hope to paste together. The worship space holds 2000 men on the floor and another 500 women in the galleries. Every thing is made of materials that will not be effected by the sea, which actually lies under 1/3 of the building. In the areas where everyone washes up before prayer, the walls are made of a mix of clay, dirt, black soap and egg yoke. That way they absorb humidity from the air. The brass lanterns outside were corroded by sea air but the one in the washing rom was still clean from the treatment of the walls. How that concoction every came up is unknown.<br />
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Observation of church/state: the name of the mosque is Hassan II who was king when it was constructed. On the main pillars in front in gold letters is his family tree.<br />
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All the brochure informed us that there are restroom of equally find beauty to the restof the mosque. They we're nice, but I thought it was a good Chruch strategedy. "it's cool inside and we have nice restrooms!"<br />
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It was a wonderful visit to an impressive structure.<br />
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Robinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15450251488356273426noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1290563711437856364.post-25290849521876113242012-08-27T11:49:00.001-07:002012-09-18T15:49:08.301-07:00Librarians on holiday<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsQT5NzXywBF-hxLR0mF54ZMY31nTtVa4W-bwyyFqPRY4GXYz9tNABwgDDQBSo2Qk0owNfohB4VRv6VAOgXyKL0vhNH-pvKnqzMztGInqr1i8wnsBfkGdt4ZtQBP2RcjIl4jRYrvOnrXQ/s1600/IMG_9557.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsQT5NzXywBF-hxLR0mF54ZMY31nTtVa4W-bwyyFqPRY4GXYz9tNABwgDDQBSo2Qk0owNfohB4VRv6VAOgXyKL0vhNH-pvKnqzMztGInqr1i8wnsBfkGdt4ZtQBP2RcjIl4jRYrvOnrXQ/s200/IMG_9557.jpg" width="150" /></a>My school here is closed on Mondays so I had the morning free to...yes! Alphbetize all the leisure reading books and clean and reorganize the teaching resource area! I can go home happy.<br />
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Fortunately After lunch we went to Pottery Villiage where they sell...well, you know. I am trying not to buy 3 dimensional objects. From there we were dropped off at the post office. You are allowed to buy stamps but the postal person MUST affix them herself. And they have a totally clear acrylic mailbox. What a good idea! Then we hit the tiny English bookstore with the adorable little French guy who runs it. And home for a belated GNT (Geezer Nap Time).<br />
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Robinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15450251488356273426noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1290563711437856364.post-83085063563833820882012-08-26T10:39:00.001-07:002012-08-26T10:39:14.802-07:00Dinner under the crescent moon<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Well it is almost half moon now but we climbed to the 6th level of a restaurant after some shopping - our Brit friend was on her last wrap up of souvenirs - and found a table looking over the plaza, surrounded by the mountains and under the moon. The food was the best I have had in Morocco and that is saying some since our cook at home base could host a TV cook show. Dessert was included and it was caramel flan - just exquisite. After the heat of the day the night was cool and it was a perfect meal.<br />
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We boarded the 7am bus for Rabat today and were home in time to get our friend off to Liverpool (correctly produced LI-vi-pool and having nothing to do with internal organs). It is hard to choose whether it is the new people or the new sites that are the best memories of a trip. This year my birthday was blessed with both!</div>
Robinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15450251488356273426noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1290563711437856364.post-77550633441554985002012-08-26T10:31:00.002-07:002012-09-19T04:29:48.907-07:00Blue waves in the desert<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC4bony8Ve2933qxzLRL-TCAFSpbh_hBlpCNCLrBpUyKXRlSvUfE1NLaMJHTSxvphSD4eN8mI7bZ-E0Hu5jmXVyzwfbbWD9Mkd0qqI1mR4GFUGQLWAZt_UkXUYXAewZlBj8n4W-ZVPBhM/s1600/IMG_9549.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC4bony8Ve2933qxzLRL-TCAFSpbh_hBlpCNCLrBpUyKXRlSvUfE1NLaMJHTSxvphSD4eN8mI7bZ-E0Hu5jmXVyzwfbbWD9Mkd0qqI1mR4GFUGQLWAZt_UkXUYXAewZlBj8n4W-ZVPBhM/s320/IMG_9549.jpg" width="320" /></a>Feet propery numbed for the climb ahead we walked the path up to the Spanish Mosque overlooking the city from the mountain side. It was wide and well trod, but at 2165 feet altitude we stopped often to marvel at the view back on the city. With the brown and green mountains surrounding the village of all blue and white walls it was like a huge blue wave rising out of the desert.<br />
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The mosque was not much to see. The Spanish built it but the locals prefer the ones in town so it was neve open. But the view and breeze form the top were spectacular.<br />
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We gratefully trekked down too lunch on the plaza. Sometimes a cold Coke is the best drink in the universe!</div>
Robinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15450251488356273426noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1290563711437856364.post-84650388374834660512012-08-26T09:02:00.001-07:002012-09-19T04:42:14.902-07:00Waterfall<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
The calls of probably 5 minarets and echoes off the Rif were
our wake up call. We had a British breakfast handed Our on trays on level 1
which of course we carried to the roof on level 8.<br />
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But before even the first call I was up to see the sunrise. Sitting in a bowl of mountains I watched the sun creep over the landscape. Some demented rooster crowded every time a new roof was illuminated.<br />
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Anyway breakfast in the early morning and then off to adventure. We made our way through the shopping area and plaza, stopping for pictures at every turn. Every house, every street and wall, is painted white or a shade of light blue. Every tiny alley - and since this is a no motors zone there has been no need to enlarge or widen into streets - twists off into a shadow of blue that pulls you in to see what lies around the next curve. We warded off all shop keepers with a promise to return later and headed as instructed to The Waterfall, site 1 on our tour.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9xLsnuIPhpD33FtJv2v66xLczDKv2-6S0VWuRpbW-g84vjU-Zb-7HlMm0B8UhGmccKfVblveIGnBk-1bma41aKt2-DPMSWMp98SsTZTThYZoVDetbzVqVA47toZq_Ci8gE07NB5KP4sY/s1600/IMG_9520.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9xLsnuIPhpD33FtJv2v66xLczDKv2-6S0VWuRpbW-g84vjU-Zb-7HlMm0B8UhGmccKfVblveIGnBk-1bma41aKt2-DPMSWMp98SsTZTThYZoVDetbzVqVA47toZq_Ci8gE07NB5KP4sY/s320/IMG_9520.jpg" width="320" /></a>If there's is a waterfall as I envisioned it, or even a String of rapids or a dam, did not exist. This is the desert and it is dry. What was there's was even more fun and equally as refreshing. Where the Water pours out of the rocks direct from the High Atlas Mountains the founders of Chefchaouen put a very small natural dam, only a few rocks and channeled part of the water into a stream for washing and part into a small pool for playing. Where it runs out of the pool is a cement slab that is like a 0 depth pool that is the joy of people everywehrer. No matter how black the long dress and heavy the scarf, There was no resisting wading into the foot numbing cold of the snow run off.<br />
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In the washing area lots of scrubbing was being done on built in washboards for that purpose in the same ice cold water.<br />
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We climbed often rocks with the local boys, watched the tiny children splash and saw something not found in Rabat: smiles on Moroccan faces. They were on holiday and it was wonderful. So were we and it was.<br />
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Robinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15450251488356273426noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1290563711437856364.post-42962694043217272082012-08-26T08:49:00.001-07:002012-09-18T15:41:29.148-07:00Fairy Lights in the Mountains<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Just back from a weekend in Chefchauoen, where is had a very wonderful birthday. Thank you to all the FB friends for the greetings! It was a magnificent day.<br />
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We left Friday after lunch (because Friday is always couscous and no one misses that!) and road 5 hours north and east to the Rif of the atlas Mountains. The first 4.45 hours were interesting, to see the tiny villages and farms where there were not cars to trucks. All transport and all farming was done by donkey. Small flocks of sheep still grazed With the lone shepherd and stick in the only shade available. Then into the foothills, bulging out of the red sand and scrub gradually. Along the way we picked up Morrocans. Chefchauoen is a big vacation place for the locals.<br />
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About the time dusk turned to dark we rounded a corner of a hill and the entire bus - all nationalities - gasped. Perched on the side of the mountains, cradled in the crack between two, was a cluster of fairy lights in the midst of nowhere. Chefchaouen<br />
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We managed a cab since the walk is straight up and got to the medina. In Chefchaouen it is more than shopping. It surrounds the old city and a huge plaza and is the center of life. Still a steep climb through the crowded stalls to the hotel Riad Baraka, run by some Brits. Since we were traveling with my roomie from Liverpool who spoke the language, we were quite safe.<br />
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When they say traditional decoration they mean in the best Disney sense of the term. Every surface and wall and even the ceilings had murals and paintings. Even the floor was covered with starts and crescent moons. It is the best of what the tourists expect of Morocco and very charming.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC4bony8Ve2933qxzLRL-TCAFSpbh_hBlpCNCLrBpUyKXRlSvUfE1NLaMJHTSxvphSD4eN8mI7bZ-E0Hu5jmXVyzwfbbWD9Mkd0qqI1mR4GFUGQLWAZt_UkXUYXAewZlBj8n4W-ZVPBhM/s1600/IMG_9549.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a> </div>
Stairs up were like climbing the inside of a cathedral row, narrow and twisting. 4 flights to the room. 5 to the share a bath and shower. 6 to the terrace. 7 and 8 to the top terraces. And what a view. That night we were surrounded by the lights of the village and the possibilities of tomorrow. We collapsed into our Moroccan blanket covered beds.</div>
Robinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15450251488356273426noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1290563711437856364.post-48152789418631300892012-08-23T12:26:00.001-07:002012-08-23T12:26:03.947-07:00Off the grid<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
We are traveling to Chefchaouen this weekend. It is in the Atlas mountain, apparently with lovely kasbah and fun medina. But not much WiiFi. So I'll be back on Sunday with stories from mountain hikes, cold rivers, 5 hour bus rides and a British guest house!</div>
Robinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15450251488356273426noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1290563711437856364.post-83194572329678316582012-08-23T12:15:00.003-07:002012-09-19T15:23:25.929-07:00Layers of history<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijscbDFvPqp9nvYCtwvWa5qDVC3gIrgHwhkD8DKFdbs_DB484a-H-9nXMIJ8Y353z0QIU1FF0HkFzu3kVrvpdm6xlCHq_94aV-5Z8tL64Jqg3m86vwj0Hx61zZFrP8BG-QkZMpdHw2TJw/s1600/IMG_9462.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijscbDFvPqp9nvYCtwvWa5qDVC3gIrgHwhkD8DKFdbs_DB484a-H-9nXMIJ8Y353z0QIU1FF0HkFzu3kVrvpdm6xlCHq_94aV-5Z8tL64Jqg3m86vwj0Hx61zZFrP8BG-QkZMpdHw2TJw/s200/IMG_9462.jpg" width="150" /></a>One thing about being a cross roads to the sea and Europe, morocco has been invaded and ruled by many different groups. Today we visited early Roman ruins dating back to 200 BC. Most of the movable items have been stolen or, now, relocated tothe archaeological museum, but therer re seitol the outines of homesnad tiels sh the road. It was there about 600 years. Typical of Roman ruins - even in Rome- they could use a good lesson from Disney as far as adding shade trees, expanitory signs and better walking paths. Currently it was just rocks. But really old rocks put in place a long time ago.<br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969);"><br /></span>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969);">Which had been built over by a mosque and school where you could still see the sleeping room and bathrooms with pipes plus two minarets with huge stork nests on top. In fact many storks build on mosques and they are not removed because it is good luck. Rabat is on a migration path, but the birds had gone north.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969);"><br /></span>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969);">There was a lovely valley and of course many sleeping cats. Cats are everywhere in Rabat.</span></div>
Robinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15450251488356273426noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1290563711437856364.post-86054884920824961922012-08-23T11:54:00.001-07:002012-08-23T12:07:04.033-07:00Hammam<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
So Hammam is not the reply you give to the waitress when asked what meat you want with your eggs. We went there today and I hardly know how to describe it to a G rated blog.<br />
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It is a public bath house. Very public. THere is one large tile room with water pipes all around, lots of buckets for hot and cold water and Grannies are on hand to scrub you with a rough glove and black soap. The only person wearing anything is at the place in the entrance you pay money. Clients, staff, other guests. Did I mention one big tile room? Totally public. Everyone. But it is the kind of thing women do when there is limited water and they want to get clean. Most Moroccan women go once a week and the scarves and veils come off, everyone relaxes, gossips, makes arrangements for tea later. It is women's safe haven and we did come out with very soft skin.<br />
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Cultural experience - better than squat toilets.</div>
Robinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15450251488356273426noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1290563711437856364.post-64723595203416386962012-08-23T11:52:00.002-07:002012-08-23T11:54:03.226-07:00Crescent moon and crazy drivers<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
The was a wonderful crescent moon in a clear sky last night. Very appropriate over the shadow of a minaret.<br />
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The buses stop at 7 so we took a Petite Taxi home. It was a blazing ride partly because he wanted OT get back for another fare and partly because we feared the whole car was going to either collapse or blow up if he downshifted. Thanks goodness they do not yet have red light cameras. The only reason we did not get hit was that the missing muffler made so much noise others got out Of the way as we wove a braid to make Tangled proud through the streets.<br />
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It was a cross between NASCAR and Demolition Derby. Moroccan style.</div>
Robinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15450251488356273426noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1290563711437856364.post-17585320157908739102012-08-23T11:48:00.002-07:002012-08-23T11:48:48.805-07:00Dance of the Night Medina<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Now the Ramadan is over we are freed from the 7-8:30 curfew and can go out right after dinner. Last night we went to the medina. It is an entirely different experience. At night it is full of tourists and teens on dates and young families. Daytime is for the Serious Mom Shopper (who apparently purchase the Calvin Klines for the household since they were none to be seen after dark) and food shopping. Night is for prepared food so to the usual smells of leather and perfume and masses of humanity add fried onions, spices, garlic and beef. There is not a single sense that is not assaulted by it! Magic!<br />
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There are mosques in the alleys and around the corner which of course non- Muslems cannot enter. However nothing is labeled. You just get a sense of different activity and of course everyone is taking off the shoes. But sometime that happens in one of the inner stalls where they sell shoes.<br />
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The paths are majorly conjested not by sales or beggars or shoppers but baby strollers! Many carry the littlest ones in a sling on the back but quasi western babies are in joggers to umbrollers. Not strapped in, however. You often see a dad leading a young child - boy or girl - and that is nice. Couples hold hands. Women hang on to each other for fear of separation. Young men often walk with arms around shoulder. We all slither past each other in the Dance of the Night Medina.</div>
Robinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15450251488356273426noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1290563711437856364.post-29054667097750270402012-08-22T04:44:00.000-07:002012-08-22T04:44:33.604-07:00Body language<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Today I was teaching geography and landforms which included an ice burg. Trying to give some context I asked if they had seen Titanc the movie. Blank stares. Could this be the last place in civilization to not see it? Then I posed in the arms back ready to fly off the bow position and immediately I hear cries of recognition. Ah - Titanic! At last we Can move on to iceberg...</div>
Robinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15450251488356273426noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1290563711437856364.post-25240303085796836672012-08-22T04:39:00.001-07:002012-09-18T15:44:42.114-07:00To the train station!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Yesterday we went to the only English bookstore in Rabat, stocking an eclectic assortment of stuff tourists left behind. We had the directions "near the central train station" so when the Petit Taxi arrived I braved my HS French and asked for the Gare. Nothing. English? Train station. No. Finally tried "chugga chugga woo woo" and we were on our way. My companions were a bit mortified but they did not even try French!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsKHoyJezu0OPR2vGh0ErWvKdcRRdjJWFThD428Ou6JgyPV2nYAMMiG40XzSL8n3oZtEI7-FDXjhkt7ZdQqct75ZNFyh7O3vZ_fYIt0g5ahDMpEO8x05dpKdZG4lDBsP6joACYs3zuUGM/s1600/IMG_9572.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsKHoyJezu0OPR2vGh0ErWvKdcRRdjJWFThD428Ou6JgyPV2nYAMMiG40XzSL8n3oZtEI7-FDXjhkt7ZdQqct75ZNFyh7O3vZ_fYIt0g5ahDMpEO8x05dpKdZG4lDBsP6joACYs3zuUGM/s200/IMG_9572.jpg" width="200" /></a>The store had lots of old textbooks and detective novels plus a whole set of Harrelquin romances. Ah the view potential learners must get of theEnglish speaking world by reading those for practice!<br />
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In a dark corner we even found some CSLewis which I think is perona non grata here. It was mixed with a stack of Korans - apparently the 200's for Dewey lovers everywhere.</div>
Robinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15450251488356273426noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1290563711437856364.post-19627720492267468952012-08-21T13:38:00.004-07:002012-08-21T13:38:56.367-07:00Short and sweet<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Or Short because of Sweets. With the end off Ramadan our 7-8:30 curfew is lifted so we can go out in the Evenings when it is not so hot. About 5 minutes walk through the embassy homes is an ice cream place - oh, my! It was crowded with families out for a post Ramadan treat or coffee. We celebrated our liberation with large scoops and whipped cream. </div>
Robinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15450251488356273426noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1290563711437856364.post-69533562384611829762012-08-20T10:00:00.000-07:002012-08-20T10:00:11.904-07:00Continents <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Morocco is sort of an island.<br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875);"><br /></span>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875);">They have applied to be in the EU but could Not be accepted without opening the door to Turkey, etc. so they are not Europe, although their close trade connections and sentiments are very much with France. French and Arabic are taught in school.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875);"><br /></span>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875);">In a dispute over the Western Sarah they have withdraw from the Union of African states so they are no longer aligned with Africa. But the location is most defiantly across the tiny Strait of Gebralter on the Africa side.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875);"><br /></span>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875);">They are in continuous struggle with the neighbors to the east, Algeria. They belong to the Middle East groups but are on the fringe politically and internationally.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875);"><br /></span>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875);">The new king is progressive and liberal and has given greater power to the elected officials but on Wednesday they have a ceremony marking the loyality of the leaders in which all of them must prostrate themselves to the king as he rides by on a black horse.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875);"><br /></span>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875);">The time zones and holidays are set by religion but the goverment ruled that mosques are only open 15 minutes before and after Prayer each day to avoid insurgent activities. Many questions about religion are answered with the governmental laws. </span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875);"><br /></span>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875);">It is 99 here and we are a cool spot so maybe it is just too hot to care.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875);"><br /></span>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875);">BTW an enterprising person could sell ceiling fans here and make Big Bucks,</span></div>
Robinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15450251488356273426noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1290563711437856364.post-25313138632848914292012-08-19T13:19:00.002-07:002012-09-19T14:43:14.114-07:00Calvin Kline briefs and bus stampede<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMdlF6e4wi6b-lTq3fSPJQBU0ZP6icMBZQYKWrjvz0FP5FbNXjTXYPOo9fySOVTvdGq3R3Jiw_sLDwHP0w2aAo-jUnEPXSc1UW-0mLBEYJZaRF5529QaTkMOZory78FVvk9XSuw4S5gVk/s1600/IMG_9257.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMdlF6e4wi6b-lTq3fSPJQBU0ZP6icMBZQYKWrjvz0FP5FbNXjTXYPOo9fySOVTvdGq3R3Jiw_sLDwHP0w2aAo-jUnEPXSc1UW-0mLBEYJZaRF5529QaTkMOZory78FVvk9XSuw4S5gVk/s320/IMG_9257.jpg" width="240" /></a>No day is complete without a trip to the media or shopping area. The closest we get int he US is a flea market, but that is not even in the same time zone. This is noisy and smelly and crowded and totally wonderful! There are the stalls on either side plus down the center anyone can spread out a mat and lay out shoes, bath salts, dresses, figs on a rope, kids clothes, more shoes, cell phones and small electronics, souvenirs like magnets and key chains, fresh herbs and bags of spices, and more shoes. Walking is a sideways slither. And every stretch of shops is not complete without a selection of Calvin Kline briefs in a variety of colors and sizes. I have a vision of all the men going to prayer and bending over to reveal identical labels.<br />
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We Travel by bus now. It is only 4 little coins. Going to town we wait at the bus stop and get on #3 and get off at the medina. But coming home there is a turn around where all the buses line up. 10-12 of them with no indication on any of them what number it is. They wait until about 2 minutes before they are to pull out and then put the number up. This means people are constantly surging from one end of the bus que to the other as a number is revealed. Some run on any bus and then ask and get off and run to another bus, sometimes going in the front door and out the back! Others hover on the sidewalk after the number is shown and then at the last minute jump on. Racing around with a notebook is some sort of controller who is trying to keep them on time but with that many there is no we can pull out when they're bumper to bumper. All honking and yelling of course. Probably Bus Controller did not turn out to the the glamour job they described in the brochure...<br />
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Double and number of fit fights and arguments today as Ramadan ends and nerves a strained by lack of food and the holiday. The cops will watch intently until 1 blow lands on the opponent and then get in the fray as well. It's the medina!</div>
Robinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15450251488356273426noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1290563711437856364.post-5615445369578669072012-08-19T13:02:00.000-07:002012-09-18T15:36:51.436-07:00Bars and grills<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6Vzud7ogixUoPjKkiTisUWYfUT1gHkIzYYrs04grGQeQ8PbFDwyhpWlnXxig5n13OA1oC4_UtVtWJ6NQ1Pt0o25EPwNRiNSnAAmqzj8T7M6XdJB0idzV-nYjEqEt2pI3Q7UD2cxdPJho/s1600/IMG_9374.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6Vzud7ogixUoPjKkiTisUWYfUT1gHkIzYYrs04grGQeQ8PbFDwyhpWlnXxig5n13OA1oC4_UtVtWJ6NQ1Pt0o25EPwNRiNSnAAmqzj8T7M6XdJB0idzV-nYjEqEt2pI3Q7UD2cxdPJho/s200/IMG_9374.jpg" width="150" /></a>Every window in every house is covered with decorative wrought iron in geometric designs and little Curley cues. Quite picturesque. Every house or apartment complex has a view proof wall with a substantial but decorative gate.<span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969);"> Very different from South Africa where wall was always topped with broken glass and barbed wire. And even that did not work very well. </span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969);"><br /></span>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969);">Inside our garden wall is overgrown with shrubs and vines so it is all green and you get a sense of garden not enclosure. The doors and windows of the house are always open for air and access. Including the very elaborate grill over the sliding back door to the garden.</span><br />
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Tonight because there are so few of us and the guard is in the other wing, the grill is closed and locked. Suddenly it feels restrictive and confining. They are keeping bad things out but us in.<br />
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The difference between bars and grills. Which side you are on. What they secure. What they restrict.</div>
Robinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15450251488356273426noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1290563711437856364.post-57143184856417801542012-08-19T12:52:00.000-07:002012-09-19T04:57:52.041-07:00It is over yet?<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
We think Ramada is over. There was a complication with the moon or something at the last minute and it lasted a day longer. Just imagine having Congress vote On Dec 24 to delay Christmas by a day. Anyway it is intensely quiet on the busy road outside and there is the distant sound of noise makers so I think this could be it. That means we are free of the 7-8:30 curfew!<br />
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It also means all the staff but one guard have gone home. We are reheating leftovers and behaving ourselves but I hope he gets extra pay for this. They'll be back Tuesday on the King's birthday. </div>
Robinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15450251488356273426noreply@blogger.com0